Acids are usually associated with a bad connotation, making many people hesitant to try them. And with so many acids on the market, it may become overwhelming to remember which acid to use — and for what.
What are acids?
Acids are chemicals used to fight acne, wrinkles, age spots, scarring, and uneven skin tone. Acids are also a skin-care ingredient often used for exfoliation. There are two main groups of acids in skincare: alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). Both groups act to loosen the bonds holding dead skin on the surface. Once these bonds are broken, the skin naturally sheds.
The Best AHAs
Glycolic Acid
Glycolic acid is one of the most common acids used in skincare. This acid penetrates deeply, regenerates collagen, and evens out the skin tone. However, since it penetrates so deeply resulting in a more intense exfoliation, glycolic acid increases sun sensitivity. Therefore, you need to incorporate sunscreen in your routine to prevent sun damage.
Pro tip: Before using any acid always patch test and start with a lower concentration. The higher the concentration, the more likely the acid will irritate the skin.
Photo credits: Pinterest
Citric Acid
Citric acid is made from citrus fruit extracts. Its main purpose is to neutralize the skin’s pH levels and to even out rough patches on skin.
Photo credits: Dischem
Lactic Acid
Unlike glycolic acid, lactic acid is more gentle on the skin because it is a hydrating agent that draws moisture to the skin. Created from sugar or fermented milk, it is ideal for individuals with sensitive skin.
Fun fact: Cleopatra was an early AHA adopter and took regular milk baths to improve her skin.
Photo credits: Mama Rose Beauty
The Best BHA
Salicylic Acid
If you ever had or still have acne you have probably heard of this acid. It is known as one of the most popular ingredients for minimizing breakouts and preventing acne. That’s because salicylic acid dissolves the oil that clogs pores while exfoliating away dead skin cells. Additionally, salicylic acid prevents excessive oil production, ultimately limiting clogging of pores.
Photo credits: Clicks
Citric acid
Primarily classified as an AHA, some formulations of citric acid are BHAs, too. This type of citric acid is used to dry out excess sebum and clean out dead skin cells deep in your pores.
Additional must-have acid!
Azelaic acid is not a BHA. Neither is it an AHA. It is produced by yeast that occurs naturally on the skin and is considered one of the main treatments for fighting acne. Essentially, it keeps pores clear, kills bacteria, and reduces inflammation. Generally, azelaic acid has very few side effects and can be used as a skin-lightening agent for fading post-acne marks and post-inflammatory hyper-pigmentation.
Photo credits: South African Pharmacy
Pro tip: Alternate products by using one type of acid in the morning and another during your night time routine.
Lastly, acids are divided into two main groups. If you’re looking for an anti-aging treatment, then an AHA may be the best fit. BHAs are better suited for inflammation and getting rid of acne. Both AHAs and BHAs are great, however, it is not advisable to layer them on top of one another because they are both exfoliators. So using both can cause dryness and irritation.
Nevertheless, if you still aren’t sure which to choose, talk to your dermatologist. They can answer any questions and recommend ingredients or products you can try for your specific needs.
Check out more of our skincare and beauty content here.